Earth is facing unprecedented attacks on its ecosystems, from deadly ozone-attacking gasses to deforestation that’s literally ripping out the lungs of the world to a mountain of discarded polysynthetic clothes in the country of Chile that can be seen from the sky. For 14 years, no rain has fallen in Alto Hospicio or the surrounding Atacama Desert region, where literal tons of clothes are discarded from all over the world.
The dry conditions of the desert, coupled with the nonbiodegradable, predominantly synthetic, petroleum-derived fibers used in modern clothes, meant that the pile never shrank. Instead, for more than two decades, it grew, and with every discarded item, it grew so large it could be seen from space. Startups like Ecocitex are helping solve the issue by recycling discarded clothes and turning them into raw materials. However, the problem requires government action.
On that front, efforts have been underway since 2016 to add textiles to the Extended Liability of the Producer law, or REP law for short, which makes producers and importers accountable for wasting specified materials. Tomás Saieg, head of the Chilean environment ministry’s Circular Economy Office, said to National Geographic, “Converting Chile from a junkyard into a recycling hub would be the dream, but first we have to add textiles to the REP law.
The Devastation of Fast Fashion Extends to Ghana
The fast fashion crisis isn’t just filling up landfills—it’s spilling over into global ecosystems, and Ghana is paying a steep price. A September 2024 report from Greenpeace Africa and Greenpeace Germany, titled “Fast Fashion, Slow Poison: The Toxic Textile Crisis in Ghana,” reveals how discarded clothing from the Global North is wreaking havoc on the environment and the health of local communities.
Every week, Ghana is flooded with about 15 million items of second-hand clothing. Nearly half of these are unsellable. The waste piles up in informal dumpsites or is openly burned in public washhouses, releasing toxic substances into the air, water, and soil. The result? A slow-motion disaster for the people and ecosystems of Ghana.
The accumulation of waste doesn’t just pollute rivers and soil; it’s even reshaping Ghana’s coastline. ‘Plastic beaches,’ created from textile waste, are smothering natural habitats and making an environmental nightmare visible to the world. Hellen Dena, Greenpeace Africa’s Pan-African Plastics Lead, called this situation out, stating: "This is environmental injustice, plain and simple. Toxic waste from the Global North isn’t just an environmental problem—it’s an attack on vulnerable communities. Fashion brands and governments need to step up and take responsibility."
Human Rights, Environmental Damage, and Late-Stage Capitalism
Considering the speed at which fashion trends come and go, and the recent enormous transfer of wealth to billionaires from the middle and working class, it’s only natural that today’s shoppers would be happy to find affordable fashionable options that keep up with fashion trends.
Now add on deeply acculturated consumerism that has people fist-fighting over travel cups and coveting the latest fashion trend that a social media star just talked about, and we have all the ingredients for fast fashion brands to rise like flames for the fashion-hungry moths to gravitate towards.
Fast fashion, pushed by giant brands like Zara, H&M, Forever 21, SHEIN, Fashion Nova, ASOS, and more, has made these companies some of the biggest faces of modern consumerism. These brands are also some of the biggest representatives of unsafe working conditions and wage theft of workers who are often forced to work more than 75 hours per week.
The human devastation these brands, individually and collectively, are causing is, sadly, not being taken seriously by the consumers who continue to provide billions of dollars a year to each of these companies.
As that $8 shirt is shipped from across the world in plastic bags that will end up in landfills, the fast fashion industry also consumes around 93 billion cubic meters of water a year. That’s enough to meet the water needs of as many as 5 million people. Moreover, according to the UN, this industry is responsible for 2 to 8 percent of global carbon emissions.
Fast fashion’s water impact and carbon emissions are not the only issues, though. The environmental impact of this industry runs deeper, not to mention the social impact side of the coin. The more is known about it, the more informed decisions can be made.
The dark side of fashion needs as much light shone on it as possible.
The Dark Side of Fast Fashion
As a business model, fast fashion is undeniably profitable, but if we dive deeper, is the damage really worth it? From water depletion to carbon emissions, the industry is notorious for its trail of destruction. It’s also notorious for its waste. As of 2023, 97 million tons of textile waste pile up in landfills every year. This number is predicted to continue rising, with the average American discarding as much as 81.5 pounds of clothes every year.
Moreover, clothing usage has plummeted by almost 40% as people only use garments 7 to 10 times before they dispose of them. The lower the quality of the clothing is, the faster it’s discarded. By 2030, the fashion industry's global emissions are poised to skyrocket by 50% if nothing is done about fast fashion’s impact. When it comes to water waste, fast fashion accounts for 20% of global wastewater.
To pile onto the environmental catastrophe, fast fashion also pollutes water resources due to practices like fabric dying and treatment, which involve chemicals. Those chemicals are infused into the water, which includes elements like heavy metals, pesticides, dyes, oil, phenol, and more. In turn, that polluted water can contaminate streams and groundwater.
Synthetic fibers like polyester and nylon, which are staples in fast fashion, pose yet another threat. These materials take centuries to biodegrade, shedding microplastics with each wash. Those microplastics find their way into the oceans, contaminating marine life and ecosystems. It’s estimated that 35% of ocean microplastics come from textile laundering.
Of course, the impact of fast fashion extends beyond the environment. In developing economies, where much of fast fashion production takes place, exploitation is a huge issue. Forced labor, child labor, and awful working conditions are staples in the industry. As is often the case, marginalized communities bear the brunt of it.
The Toll of Black Friday on the Planet
Every year, Black Friday drives millions of people into shopping frenzies with slashed prices and limited-time deals. While this shopping event began in the U.S., many other countries around the world have embraced it as one of the busiest shopping days of the year. But while consumers chase bargains, the environmental impact is breathtaking.
A 2019 study revealed that up to 80% of Black Friday purchases go to waste, ending up in landfills or burned in incinerators. Black Friday is also responsible for massive levels of CO2 emissions. The manufacturing process alone plays a massive role in the carbon footprint of Black Friday. Take common electronics like laptops and tablets: producing just one can generate anywhere from 50 to 200 kilograms of CO2.
The environmental toll of Black Friday extends beyond manufacturing to delivery. The rise of next-day shipping has fueled a sharp increase in carbon emissions. According to Population Matters, by 2030, the number of delivery vehicles is expected to grow by 36%, adding 6 million tonnes of CO2 emissions annually. It doesn’t stop there–packaging is also a significant contributor to emissions, accounting for 45% of greenhouse gas emissions from online shopping globally.
Black Friday Sales: How Brands Profit from Their Trash
While the fast fashion business model drives profits and keeps consumers hooked on ever-changing trends, it also leads to one glaring issue: massive overproduction. This isn’t a mistake or a miscalculation—it’s a deliberate feature. Fast fashion brands churn out clothes at breakneck speed, often producing far more garments than consumers will ever purchase. Why? Overproduction ensures stores are always fully stocked with the latest trends, making shoppers more likely to buy more. But the tradeoff is staggering waste.
Take H&M, for example. In 2018, the brand reported sitting on $4.3 billion worth of unsold inventory—shirts, dresses, and accessories that simply didn’t sell. This isn't an isolated issue; it’s how fast fashion operates. By prioritizing quantity over accuracy in demand forecasting, companies knowingly accept that significant portions of their stock will go unsold.
To manage this surplus, fast fashion brands rely on massive sales events like Black Friday. These deep discount days are designed to move unsold inventory quickly, clearing warehouses for the next wave of collections. While consumers may feel like they’re getting a bargain, these sales are often less about meeting demand and slashing prices and more about taking out the trash that costs pennies on the dollar to manufacture, passing on enormous mark-ups to consumers, even at the Black Friday sales prices. That “deal” really isn’t a “deal.”
Conscious Consumerism and Rethinking the Model
Some brands are starting to experiment with solutions to this issue. On-demand production models, for example, aim to produce garments only when they’re ordered, reducing waste. Others are investing in recycling and upcycling programs to give unsold products a second life. Consumers also have the power to challenge the system.
The best way to combat fast fashion’s environmental harm during Black Friday and beyond is to shop consciously by supporting businesses with ethical practices, shopping small, shopping secondhand, or not shopping at all. If you want to practice the latter, following the 4 Rs—Refuse, Reduce, Reuse, and Repair—can help you dramatically reduce waste. Before making a purchase, ask yourself:
- Do I already have something similar?
- How often will I use this item?
- How long will it last?
- Was it made sustainably?
- Do I really need it?
This moment of reflection can help you break the cycle of impulsive buying and reduce the demand for low-quality, disposable goods.
No matter how attractive fast fashion may be, its cost to our planet and our fellow humans is resulting in a high price to pay. Events like Black Friday may seem like an opportunity to snag a deal, but the bigger picture has enormous costs. To break the cycle, consumers are demanding and inspiring change—not just in shopping behaviors but also in how companies produce their goods.
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